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Perfume and attar are two types of fragrances that belong to the large and diverse category of aromatic substances. Attars are ‘Oil’ scents, whereas perfumes are ‘Spray’. The main difference between atar and Perfumes is that attars are based on natural products, while perfumes are based on chemicals that might harm our skin. They are similar in a way that makes us smell good. However, the process from the initial development to the final product is quite different. This article provides information on perfume and attar disparities, including, the origins of perfume and attar, composition, their production and the cultural uses.
The word ‘perfume’ is the Latin phrase that translates to ‘per fumum’, which literally means ‘through smoke.’ Perfumery has archaeological evidence from the earlier established civilizations like Egypt, Mesopotamia, and the Indus Valley civilization. During the early societies, they employed the use of aromatic oils and resins during ceremonies and rituals, body perfuming and healing.
In the modern world, the perfume industry started in the 17th century, but it mainly developed in France. The small town of Grasse in the south of France owes its fame in the craft of making perfume to the favourable conditions. It was suitable for the production of perfumes. Through the years, the practice of perfumeries changed and adopted new methods, adding new elements and resources, resulting in the fancy and varied range of perfumes today.
The history of Attar or ittar is quite old and has strong roots in the cultures of the Indian subcontinent, Middle Eastern countries, and parts of Asia. In essence, the use of the appendage ‘attar’ is from the Persian word’ itr,’ which connotes scent. Attar is an ancient product, and from the findings regarding it, it is clear that it was used in the Indus Valley Civilization.
Initially, attars were kings’ and queens’ favourite fragrances in the kingdoms of India, Persia, and the South Arabian territories. Technically, attars are natural flora and fauna extracts. Essential oils were not only applicable for perfume and body spray but also in religious rituals and functions of seduction. The process of attar making is the same as it was centuries ago. Hence, Attar’s true character is still the same.
Today’s perfumes usually originate from fragrant oils, aromatic substances, solvents or vehicles, fixatives or chemicals. Essential oils and aroma compounds come from plant sources, including flowers, fruits, spices, woods, and chemicals. The solvent for perfume can be ethanol or a combination of water and ethanol. This will enable the perfume to be used as a spray. Then, it will be applied to the skin to dissolve aromatic ingredients. Examples of perfumes include Dior, Channel, Gucci, Bonanza Satrangi etc.
Attar is, therefore, a natural perfume that directly extracts from flowers through a slow, chemical-free process of steam distillation. It is also important to note that, unlike the current world perfumes, attars are free from alcohol and any synthetic compound. However, the candles are made from flowers, herbs, spices, and other plants, entailing the necessary oil extracts as their primary components. These oils are then mixed with a base oil, most preferably sandalwood oil, which serves both as a fixative and the solvent.
The main components in attar manufacturing are rose, jasmine, saffron, vetiver and agarwood (oud). The selection of components is based on the type of essential oils that are needed and available in the region. Therefore, the product that people use for marketing has intensity, longevity, and purity of its fragrance, and it is devoid of any artificial input.
The production of modern perfume involves several stages, including:
-Extraction: The aromatic compounds originate from techniques such as steam distillation, solvent extraction and enfleurage from natural sources.
-Blending: The perfumers combine the extracted oils and aroma compounds.
-Aging: The blended fragrance is left to mature for several months to ensure that all the ingredients achieve their characteristic aromas.
-Dilution: now the fragrance is ‘neatened’ by the addition of a solvent, which is generally ethanol or to the required concentration.
-Bottling: The final product is then filtered, bottled and ready for the market.
The production of attar follows a more traditional process, which includes:
-Harvesting: These may include flowers, herbs, or other plants that produce some form of smell and are best collected when they create their best-smelling compounds.
-Distillation: Some of the plants are put in a still with water and then heated. The steam transmits the essential oils from the plants to the condenser, where they cool down and are gathered.
-Maceration: The collected oils are blended with carrier oil, frequently with sandalwood oil, and are allowed to ripen for several months. The process also enables a combination of the oils so that they acquire a complex aroma.
-Filtration and Bottling: After all the above processing steps, the matured attar is again filtered to eliminate any remaining impurities and then packed in bottles for sale.
Perfume is now a material culture or the norm in most societies in the Western world. It applies to increase social appeal, self-esteem, and assertiveness, as well as to convey one’s personality. Perfumes are generally fragrances. They are permanently linked to fashion and branded items. Perfumes are not only applicable towards human scent. It can include body products like candles, lotions, and house sprays.
Attar is prominent in Middle Eastern, South Asian, and some Southeast Asian cultures. Spirituality is an inseparable companion today. It is present in religious activities and is widely helpful in rituals and ceremonies. Islamic culture uses attar to clean the body before prayer, which is why it refers to the scent of purity. Attar is also beneficial during festivities and also has healing compounds.
Rising from the Indian soil, the attar is an essential form of medicine in the ancient Indian system, Ayurveda. It is helpful in different cures to rectify the energies in the body and give approval to physical and mental health. People also love the natural and beautiful fragrance of attar due to its effectiveness in awakening memories and feelings. Thus making them part of cultural value.
There are some social concerns and environmental issues with the synthesis of aroma compounds, such as pollution of the environment and depletion of natural resources. Another drawback of perfume packaging is the usage of complex and modern designs. It contributes to the increase in waste and has a negative impact on the environment.
In contrast, the attars have natural ingredients and a more traditional method of production. Attars are biodegradable. Hence, it has a low or negligible effect on the environment. The packaging of Attar is quite essential. Often, the fragrance comes in a simple, recyclable container.
Perfume and attar are both beneficial in pleasing our senses with fragrances. Both are different from each other in terms of their origin, ingredients, manufacturing procedures, and implications. According to the function of perfumes, they are a combination of chemical products. In contrast, Attar has an outlook on the old world and uses dusky dyes to develop an aura. 7
It is a symbol of ancient hand-making techniques and the purity of natural extracts. Knowledge of such differences not only deepens the awareness of these scented assets but also relates us to the roots and heritage from where they originate.
